Mandelic Acid a Hero Ingredient assisting in the control of
Anti-ageing, Acne & Hyperpigmentation
Mandelic acid is a stabilised Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA), naturally derived from the hydrolysis of an extract obtained from bitter almonds. In terms of molecular structure, the Mandelic acid molecule is larger than that of the widely used AHA, glycolic acid, and is therefore not as aggressive. This further means that there is less likelihood that ‘hotspots’ will develop with Mandelic acid as with other peeling agents.
The use of Mandelic acid within the skin care industry stems from its dual nature as an alpha hydroxy acid with potential cosmeceutical activity along with well- established antibacterial activity. The earliest trial with Mandelic acid had two aims: to determine whether it can produce anti-ageing effects on the skin similar to those produced by glycolic acid, and to assess the antibacterial action of Mandelic acid in treating acne and preventing gram-negative bacterial infections after laser resurfacing.
Evaluation in the cosmeceutical industry over a period of 18 years has shown success in utilising Mandelic acid for the improvement of acne, skin texture, wrinkles, lentigenes and melasma. Skin texture improves with perceivable results within days of use, while fine lines and wrinkles showed improvement in photo-aged skin concerns.
Mandelic acid use for acne-prone skin types
Most acne sufferers fall into three picker categories: the practical picker, the nervous habit picker and the compulsive picker, all making the condition worse with possible scarring. Cosmetic acne in the genetically acne-prone or teenage acne-sufferer, even if only a mild case, is almost certain to be affected by comedogenic ingredients contained within cosmetic formulations. This means an ingredients ability to penetrate down into the pore and cause the formation of comedones. Comedones manifest as fairly numerous, elevated small whiteheads, appearing over the cheeks and chin and sometimes the forehead. Periodically, some of these whiteheads turn into inflamed pustules which become unsightly, persistent and troublesome.
Mandelic acid use showed remarkable improvement in the treatment of patients portraying with inflammatory, pustular, comedonal and papular acne. Patients with gram –negative folliculitis also showed improvement while patients with acne at Grade III or below responded most positively.
Mandelic acid use for abnormal pigmentation
A sustained, gradual improvement over a period of months is characteristic in hyperpigmentation–prone patients treated with Mandelic acid products. Noteworthy improvement was seen in the treatment of darkly pigmented skin types while melasma, often resistant to topical treatments, was noted to improve even in patients who had failed with other topical products. This was especially noted in cases where tretinoin and hydroquinone was previously used. No adverse darkening of the melasma was seen when these patients were treated with Mandelic acid products. Overall improvement of fine wrinkles and lines can be seen in patients across Fitzpatrick skin types I through VI, without any evidence of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Response in dermal melasma was much slower than that of epidermal melasma (as determined by Wood’s light examination).
Anti- Ageing benefits of Mandelic acid
Daily use of Mandelic acid within the skin care routine will soon show significant results in the fight against skin ageing. As Mandelic acid is an AHA ingredient, it works to encourage cellular turnover, working to remove redundant skin cell build up and in turn cellular regeneration is increased. Fine lines and wrinkles are minimised while skin texture becomes notably smoother.
In 2006, the DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care range was launched into the South African skin care market with the introduction of Mandelic acid as a ‘hero’ ingredient found within DermaFix DermaBright. Further Mandelic acid-based formulations have since been included within the DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care range, and may be found in DermaFix MD Prescriptives Mandelic Cleanser and MD Prescriptives Mandelic Toner.
These above-mentioned products have the following skin care benefits:
MD Prescriptives Mandelic Cleanser is a mild, multifunctional cleanser that delicately yet deeply cleanses the skin. The skin re-acquires its original equilibrium dealing with various problematic skin care concerns.
MD Prescriptives Mandelic Toner is a 3-in-1 multi-purpose clarifying toner working to balance pH levels, assisting to control and reduce excess oil production for a clear and even complexion. It furthermore penetrates deep into pores to remove makeup and pore-clogging redundant skin cells while refining the surface of the skin.
DermaFix DermaBright ‘mini-peel’ is particularly useful in assisting to suppress hyperpigmentation, as well as working to treat inflammatory non-cystic acne while rejuvenating photo-aged skin. DermaFix DermaBright can be gradually incorporated into your evening skin care routine and may be added into any DermaFix cleansers as a wash, or may applied neat as advised by your DermaFix Skin Care Professional.
For more information on the DermaFix Cosmeceutical Skin Care product range, visit www.dermafix.co.za or call us directly on 0861 28 23 23.