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Rise of natural trends in the SA Ethnic hair care segment


Rise of Natural Trends in the
South African Ethnic Hair-care Segment

Rethinking relaxers

The natural trend in the South African Ethnic hair care segment is also on the rise. This is mainly because a large portion of Ethnic consumers are moving away from harsh chemical relaxers in favour of less invasive products to manage their curls.

Analysts from Diagonal Reports do however argue that relaxing will not be eliminated any time soon. Though consumer preferences will force change on products formulated to control curly hair, and on straighteners developed using high levels of chemicals’.

Shani Vermeulen from Cosmetic Ingredients says Ethnic consumers are developing unique scalp conditions from these treatments This is because the most cost-effective hair straightening products contain sodium hydroxide as the active. Once applied onto the hair, it is only a D (OGT D). This a composition of glycerol triesters derived from
corn oil.

‘OGT D has been clinically proven to improve the condition of the scalp, and to provide anti-itching and soothing benefits,’ she comments. The oxygenation process transforms glycerol triesters into OGT D, changing the structure into becoming similar to pro-inflammatory lipidic derivatives comparable to leucotrienes and prostaglandines.’

A clinical efficacy study showed OGT D to have a fast anti-irritation effect and to significantly reduce erythema after 48 hours of application. Van Rooyen adds: Scalp pruritus or scalp itching is a commonly encountered condition and a joint cause of scarring alopecia, frequently diagnosed among African American women. It is also a matter of time before the active starts irritating the scalp (first felt as tingling) and then suddenly, severe burning,’ she explains. 

Many brands and manufacturers have attempted to incorporate ingredients that would form a protective film on the scalp, and these work when tested in a controlled environment. Unfortunately in a hair salon or with an at-home treatment, conditions and method of application vary and often speeds up the burning sensation. The constant irritation of the scalp disrupts the protective skin barrier and soon the consumer needs treatments for itchy, flaky scalp. If this condition is left untreated, it can develop into full-blown dandruff.’

Alternative hair styles that could cause similar scalp conditions are hair extensions and weaves.

Did You KNOW?
According to Diagonal Reports, the internet has created a new alliance of go-to people whose online tutorials bring expertise and know-how within the reach of millions of Ethnic women, transforming their expectations of products.

In response to these Ethnic hair care needs, Cosmetic Ingredients offers oat lipid e oil, one of the few vegetable oils associated with scalp itching and tenderness.’ OGT D has also been proven to assist in the alleviation of scalp pruritus. During efficacy testing, 59 per cent of volunteers considered the relief ‘rapid’ and ‘immediate’. 

Vincience Biofunctionals is an Ashland range of active ingredients, which is available in South Africa from Millchem that contain natural ceramides - which are present in the protective skin barrier layer. The oil also boasts skin identical fatty acids to aid repair of the barrier layer. Lipid e oil is also rich in anti-oxidants and phospholipids to aid moisturisation. It is an ideal active to use in on anhydrous (water-free) or emulsion treatment product for hair and skin care applications.

Soothing the scalp
Solutions to assist with the effects of stresses on Ethnic hair
have also become a priority for Millchem. ‘Dry hair sculpting
in the form of wigs and weaves; wet hair styling and relaxing;
and environmental factors like sun, wind and pollution take
toll on the hair and scalp of Ethnic consumers,’ says
Marcel van Rooyen, Millchem’s cosmetics and detergency
national sales manager. ‘Such daily stresses, whether
chemical or mechanical, lead to complaints of hair breakage,
thinning and loss; lack of hair growth; scalp irritation and
scalp damage.

To address specific needs to improve hair
condition, Vincience Biofunctionals has
introduced Oxygenated Glycerol Triesters

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